Biarritz, Part Trois

Biarritz surfers sunset One could get used to life in Biarritz. A swim and then coffee in the morning, followed by a visit to the market, a day writing, and a sunset stroll before dinner to look out across the water and to marvel at the amount of surfers, bobbing around like a huge family of seals.

Biarritz Fish MarketThe markets in France have always been a source of joy for me. Life in Ireland has greatly improved with the advent of the farmer’s markets, but still we are a ways from what one can find on this side of the water – especially in terms of vegetables, fruits, baked goods, and freshly-caught fish.

Every day, my lunch has consisted of booty collected at the market – prawns, local cheeses, fresh yogurt, and whatever looks especially tasty in terms of vegetables and fruits.

Les Platanes Restaurant, Biarritz

Nights have been about checking out the local eateries. Last night the restaurant was
Les Platanes, a restaurant with a Michelin star, in an old house with plenty of charm.

The service was friendly and the food was quite good, although perhaps not quite what one would expect given the reputation. Could be, of course, that the chef was distracted by the rugby and and not giving the cooking the usual attention. I’m guessing it’s bad form to go for a meal while “Les Bleus” are playing. From my perspective, however, given Ireland’s performances, I was happy for the distraction!

(P.S. from Saturday night: Just back from Chez Albert down at the pier. It’s a seafood restaurant with a stunning location. Inventive and delicious. Definitely recommended, but give the desserts a miss.)

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Biarritz, Part Deux

surfer biarritz That’s not me on the surfboard. No, I have been quite diligent here, working away on the book. Still, there has been time to stroll around the place and get a sense of Biarritz.

Biarritz beachIt’s surprisingly quiet, so I don’t know if we’ll be opening a shop here anytime soon! But the tranquility is what makes it appealing – a relaxed place, with slightly faded grandeur.

One thing is certain – it is very popular with surfers. The beach is packed with them. They are the only people who seem in a hurry – I’ve met a few running down the streets in wetsuits, boards tucked under the arm, to try to catch the next wave.

Le Clos Basque Restaurant BiarritzThis evening I had a delightful meal in Le Clos Basque Restaurant (12, Rue Louis Barthou, Biarritz). Tucked away down a side street, the interior is charming with white-washed walls and starched blue and white tablecloths.

The food was inventive (perfectly cooked skewer of prawns with strawberries and a vanilla risotto, gazpacho with black pepper and mint served with a slice of peasant bread and aged parmesan, stewed apricots with lavender chantilly) and worth waiting for (the place was packed, and the waiters seemed a bit overwhelmed). The prices were as surprising as the food – less than 30 euro per person for three courses including wine…

Reservations are essential. So book ahead and don’t miss it. After all, what’s the hurry?

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Biarritz

Biarritz The ice cream man has taken advantage of cheap Ryanair flights and fled the country for a bit of work on the book and some culinary re-charging. Sun was also part of the idea, but sadly it’s raining here in Biarritz.

Biarritz Food MarketStill, I don’t mind a bit. There is a mountain of writing to be done on the book, although I couldn’t resist a swim this morning (you’re going to get wet anyway, so what’s a bit of rain?)

Then I found a wonderful indoor market just around the corner from the hotel. I sure do love France! Now I have a bag full of fruit that actually smells like fruit and some local cheeses. I have a baguette from the boulanger and, after a feed, it will be all work this afternoon.

Or… will it? It looks like the sun is coming out!

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All Ireland 2007

sam A group of us went up to the All Ireland. It was a great weekend – dinner in Chapter One followed by a pint or two. Then breakfast of a smoothie from Fallon & Byrne and a rake of sandwiches bought from same for the game.

It wasn’t much of a match, but as long as Kerry keep winning, we won’t be complaining (and my apologies to any Cork fans out there!

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Eurotoques and Lots of Food

Trevor Sargent and Ross Lewis My brother Sean and I headed away last weekend for a conference put on at Brook Lodge in Wicklow by international chefs association, Eurotoques. The topic of the conference was on sustainability and agriculture. Speakers included Minister for State Trevor Sargent, Ross Lewis of Chapter One, Lorcan Cribbin of Bang Cafe, and Matt Cooper.

I met some old friends and acquaintances and had a great time. They laid on a barbeque for lunch, and in the evening we had a immense dinner at the Strawberry Tree, which is Ireland’s only certified organic restaurant. The meal was smashing, and Evan Doyle is a great host. Highly recommended!

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Senior Football Semi-Final

Dublin Fan I went up to Dublin with some friends this past weekend for the clash of Kerry against Dublin, and am back in Kerry again quite tired!

Hogan StandIt was a great fun, not just because Kerry won. There was brilliant atmosphere, and I had my first encounter with the pheomenon of Hill 16 full of Dubs (photo right) albeit from a safe distance. Dublin fans are quite impressive and sure know how to make noise!

Other highlights of the trip were a delicious smoothie from Fallon & Byrne, which went some way toward healing a hangover. Tasty sandwiches from the same got us through the match. I didn’t have such good luck finding a decent cappuccino, though, even though we tried several new places (when will baristas finally stop burning the espresso and scalding the milk?)

On Saturday night, we ate at the Mermaid Cafe, then moved on to Mulligans (the great culchie meeting place), then the Palace Bar, and from there spotted former Kerry great, Bomber Liston, among other familiar faces.

The All-Ireland beckons, and my head hurts already…

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Kenmare Horse Fair

Kenmare Horse Fair I spent today out and about in the Kingdom, and happened unwittingly onto the annual horse fair in Kenmare. What a picture of contrasts! The pristine town was packed with a very different crowd from the usual, and the rambunctious mood of a traditional fair (that’s quite rare to come across nowadays) clashed with Kenmare’s 5 star image.

Kenmare CattleTraders lined the streets hawking work boots and power tools, and many of the town’s shops closed for the day.

Tourists seemed somewhat befuddled by the crowds and mayhem, but many were visibly pleased by the animals on show – from ducks to cows to ponies.

One would think from this photo that members of the Tidy Town Committee will have nightmares for weeks to come…

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New Shop in Cork

The Blue Olive, Cork There is a great new gourmet shop in Cork called the Blue Olive that’s definitely worth checking out if you’re in the area. It’s run by the personable Ken and stocks interesting wines, cheeses, ready meals, and lots of tasty snacks (including our ice cream!)

The addess is Marble Hill, Boreenmanna Road, Cork.

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