Mallorca Top Ten

Formentor Mallorca Mallorca was a pleasant place to visit, and I can certainly recommend it. Although there are plenty of the ugly high rise developments that mar the coast of Spain, there are also plenty of places that remain virtually untouched. The mountains provide much of the scenery, and there are lovely beaches for swimming. Throw in some good food and a bit of culture, and you could do far, far worse. In fact, I really wished I had more time…

Here are the highlights of my visit to Mallorca:

1. Drinking a thick chocolate and eating orange sorbet made from local oranges while watching the harbour in Palma at Grand Cafe Cappuccino. It’s a chain, but they know what they are about.

Fundacio Joan Miro2. Getting a bit of culture at Fundacio Joan y Pilar Miro. I have always loved his paintings, and this combines a museum with his house and studios. It’s quite a thrill to see where he painted some of his great works.

3. Cafe Cortado – This the preferred drink for a lift in the afternoon. It’s usually a double espresso with a dash of steamed milk served in a small glass…

4. The raw beauty of peninsula Formentor. Even with all the coach tours, this place is unmissable. If the road gets too windy and you get too hot, there are a few good beaches to jump in and cool down.

Cala Pi Beach5. Swimming in the cove at Cala Pi, on the South Coast. You have to climb down a steep set of stairs to access a perfect beach with protected waters.

6. Tapas. Every one seems to agree that La Boveda has the best, and I can’t disagree. They were sublime!

7. The public transport buses in Palma. For 1.10 you can get just about anywhere, and they come regularly! A great way to get home after a late dinner with a few glasses of wine (see #10)…

Valdemossa Mallorca8. Exploring the mountain towns. Although many of these are quite touristy, they make a great place for a wander. The most famous is probably Valldemossa, where Chopin and George Sand spent some of their troubled time together.

9. Spanish Leather. There’s much to choose from. I came back with a new pair of Campers – the company is based in the town of Inca, which has a great tradition of leather work.

10. Good Spanish red wine.

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Newgrange vs. Tara

Newgrange Before getting back into the world of ice cream, I just want to add something more about my trip. When coming back from Belfast, we decided to stop at two of Ireland’s most important historical sites – Newgrange and the Hill of Tara. I especially wanted to see the latter before the proposed motorway becomes a reality. So I entered “Newgrange” into the GPS, and we wound our way through the suburban sprawl that is the new Ireland.

It’s been many years since I’ve been to Newgrange, and when we arrived, I found out the disappointing news that the only access is through the visitor centre, 10 minutes away by car. You have to drive there, join a tour, and they bus you back and escort you through. This didn’t appeal to me much, as I am allergic to bus tours, and I grumbled and suggested they signpost this fact on the access road. The woman on guard said rather curtly that if I had come through Slane, it would have been well-signposted, and that I couldn’t expect to waltz in on a World Heritage Site. I pointed out that Slane is not on the way from Belfast, and that I had just done a bit of waltzing on the Giant’s Causeway! I understand the need to preserve Newgrange, but does the visitor centre really need to be so far away, and in the depth of January when there is hardly anyone there, does every visitor really need a bus tour?

Hill of Tara

So we headed on for Tara, and it is quite a contrast. There, you can wander around as you like, and little effort has been made to protect or explain it (the church/visitor centre was closed this time of year). Certainly this amazing site should be protected as well, and it should be free from motorways. Is it really possible that we value suburban sprawl so highly and give so little value to our heritage and our history? Of course one might argue that if Tara were made into a heritage site, you’d be back to heritage centres and the bus for access. Then again, the new motorway would probably get you there and back faster!

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Travelling North – Derry to Down

Giant's Causeway Although my sister married a Derryman, they are living in Germany now, and it’s been years since I’ve visited the North, outside of a short trip to Belfast. So I was looking forward to cruising the Derry and Antrim coast, and it didn’t disappoint.

Antrim CoastIt’s so unspoiled, compared to the Republic – there are none of the endless, ugly holiday home estates that mar the landscape from Dingle to Donegal. There are caravan parks and holiday homes, but they seem to be limited to the towns. Instead, there is beautiful landscape and open roads. It’s a fabulous place for touring.

It’s easy to spend a few hours on the Giant’s Causway, and it’s a deserved World Heritage Site. Even with those hours, it’s not too much to travel the coast from Derry to Belfast in a day.

Anna's HouseWe had booked a place for two nights outside Belfast – Anna’s House, which gave us peace and quiet with easy access to Belfast restaurants. This place is a true gem, and Anna’s hospitality is unsurpassed. She whipped up home-baked breads and scones for breakfast, met us with tea and cakes in the evening, and did everything in her power (which is considerable) to make us comfortable. Not to be missed.

The first night we ate at Macau on the Ormeau Rd., since I was craving something ethnic. An appetiser of coconut-battered prawns of amazing size and tenderness was followed by a sizzling pot of monkfish. Yum! Why does it have to be so far away from Dingle?

Chocolate RoomThe following day I wandered around the Lisburn Road in the morning. I want to put a Murphys Ice Cream shop there! It’s cosmopolitan and has lots of cafes and galleries. There are many places for rent – due to gentrification and spiraling rents. While there I visited Swantons Gourmet Foods – a place that would get any foodie’s heart thumping, and had an excellent hot chocolate in the Chocolate Room.

For lunch, we headed toward Holywood and ate at the Bay Tree, where we had some excellent soup and leafed through their new cookbook.

For dinner, it was hard to choose among all the good restaurants. In the end we chose  James Street South. It was the best meal I had in a long time – a sublime black pepper risotto followed by tender red snapper, and a camomile creme caramel. For people who say Belfast is hot when it comes to cuisine – yes, yes, yes!

Fresh FieldsThe next morning, we headed for Warrenpoint, where we have our first customer in the North – Fresh Fields. I guess you could say we are now an international company!

I chatted with the personable Neil about the ice cream, and it seems to be going well. Apparently he has had many customers who have heard of us, and he has re-ordered the ice cream several times.

The shop is delightful – lots of produce and a very intelligent array of gourmet foods. We spent our last pounds on tasty snacks for the road, and headed back toward the South…

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Travelling North – Galway to Donegal

Glenveigh National Park Armed with the fantastic Bridgestone Guides and some recommendations, we headed up the country from Dingle in search of good food, good scenery, and a bit of a break in the bleakness of January.

RouteAlthough the weather can be bad and some places closed, Winter is a good time to travel, since nothing is booked out, you have the countryside to yourself, and there are real bargains to be had in terms of lodgings.

Since it’s the quiet season in the world of ice cream and the workload is diminished, it’s a perfect time to explore parts of the country one doesn’t usually get to…

The first stops were in Galway – deliveries of ice cream to Ard Bia in Galway city (sadly we didn’t have the hunger to enjoy their lunch menu due to too much snacking) and to the multi-award-winning McGeough’s Butchers in Oughterard.

We pushed on then, heading up through beautiful Connemara for a stroll around Westport, then on to Sligo, where we had booked into Cromleach Lodge.

Cromleach LodgeThis highly-rated establishment has been recently refurbished, and it was very comfortable.

I think we were the only people spending the night, and there were only two other tables booked at the restaurant. Perhaps because the kitchen was so quiet, the meal was a bit of a let-down. The breakfast in the morning, however, was fantastic.

The next day we drove to Donegal, stopping for the cliff walk before Bundoran to take advantage of a break in the rain, although the high winds made things a bit difficult. In Donegal town, we visited Aroma and were not disappointed in the cakes. Top class baking.

Green Gate ArdaraWe decided to spend the night in Ardara, having heard great things about the rustic Green Gate B&B, where there’s no TV or phones, and where the legendary ex-Parisian bookstore owner Paul had made headlines after cancelling all his American bookings (he had one too many head elsewhere after seeing how basic it was). And yes, he is accepting Americans again, but be warned – it is as basic as it is charming…

Nancy’s Bar in Ardara sadly does not do food in the off season, as I’ve been told they do the best chowder in Ireland, but it is definitely worth a stop. The Guinness was mighty, the atmosphere homey, and the conversation great…

Donegal CastleThe next day we drove around the coast, then headed into Glenveigh National Park for a walk. Although we ended up drenched from the rain, it was a good stroll, and some tea in Glenveigh Castle helped to warm ourselves.

We spent the night in Castle Grove House in Letterkenny, which we loved. On a quiet, restful site, it has tasteful furnishings, high ceilings, tasty food, and two drawing rooms with huge roaring wood fires to warm the bones.

The following morning we filled the van with diesel and headed toward the border…

(Part 2 to follow – Antrim, Belfast and Down)

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Off License – Gourmet Shop

Castle Off License One of the new developments in the Irish gourmet food world is the emergence of off licenses with a selection of gourmet foods. The new Castle Off License in Castle Street, Tralee is a good example of this. Besides a good range of booze, they sell local smoked salmon, Irish cheeses, chocolates, and our ice cream among other things. It’s definitely worth a visit.

I think this trend makes sense, especially if the off license specialises in fine wines or upscale spirits, for those customers would tend to be interested in unique foods as well. There certainly are other off licenses around the country that are doing the same – the Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin was one of our first customers…

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Getting Lost is Getting Harder

Global Positioning System My brother has installed a GPS in the ice cream delivery van, and I tried it out for the first time today. I don’t think this particular model is the top of the line, and it’s a bit cumbersome in terms of adding your destination. However, it sure makes getting lost difficult, especially in a city. It’s also great if there is a traffic diversion or heavy traffic that diverts you onto confusing and poorly sign-posted Irish back roads.

I highly recommend that anyone doing a lot of driving for sales or deliveries (who doesn’t already have one) part with the couple hundred euro…

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