Can the Italians Standardise Coffee?

Espresso According to the Telegraph, the Italians are so offended by the quality of espressos in European cafes that they are trying to set out a golden standard for their favourite drink. The Telegraph writes:

Marco Lion, the head of Italy’s parliamentary agriculture commission, is worried that the “true identity of Italian coffee” could be lost because, he says, many cafes in Europe do not have the faintest idea how to make a good cup.

Espressos must be “of a hazelnut hue with ornate flourishes of red and a smokiness that creates a uniform tiger-stripe pattern”.

Meanwhile, the “crema”, which sits on top, must be like a “tight sweater, with very fine bubbles, if at all, and of a height of between two and four millimetres”.

…and… “There is only one true and authentic way to make a cappuccino, but for some reason there appear to be myriad types sold in cafes,” he said.

I have to say I agree with his concerns. The purist in me hates the drift to ever bigger drinks, hotter drinks, less care given by baristas under severe time pressure, and style over substance. One would like to think a fight back by the Italians might help solve things, but somehow I doubt it, especially since the cappuccino in the Telegraph’s photo is all about latte art. Poor Signor Lion would have palpitations if he saw it…

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Trip down memory lane

Keys to new shop As I’m writing the introduction for the upcoming ice cream book, I’ve dug out some of the old photos from the Murphys Ice Cream archives.

Sean and Kieran Murphy outside shop

It’s quite something to see how much things have changed since 2000, when we opened! The top photo shows my brother and I on Strand Street in Dingle with the keys for our new shop (originally Nell’s Cafe).

The photo on the right shows our first sign, and ourselves enjoying our first ice creams.

I’m so glad we got rid of the orange colour!

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Dingle Peninsula Food and Wine Festival, Part 4

Dingle Peninsula Food Festival Chefs Things are getting pretty crazy here in Dingle with the food and wine festival right around the corner (Oct. 12th-14th).

Things are really starting to take shape. It looks like Clodagh McKenna will be here as part of a TV series on farmer’s markets, and she will be giving a cooking demonstration in St. James’ Church on the Saturday at 12:00.

The taste trails are also getting finalised. So far we have:

Dingle Chefs with Lobster

  • Simple Pleasures – tutored tasting of French wines
  • Jerry Kennedy Butchers – Sampling of their excellent produce
  • Curran’s Pub – Seafood counter
  • Murphys Ice Cream – Ice cream tasting: 16 Shades of Chocolate
  • Global Village – Tutored tasting of Australian boutique wines with Martin Forker (10 euro cover. Book on 087 9177700)
  • Dingle Crystal – Chardonnay tasting – differences in various styles
  • Greelane Gallery – Oysters and fine wines Foxy Johns – Scallops and cider
  • Hannie Agnes – Pint and a pie (Piog Pies)
  • An Grianan – Tastes of organic snacks
  • Fevre 1971 Citroen Van will be around town sampling delicious wines
  • Benner’s Hotel – A masterclass in the wines of Burgundy (10 euro cover. Book on 087 9177700)
  • The Pier – Charity fish auction
  • Lisbeth Mulcahy – Hearty organic soups by Tig Bhric
  • Novecento Gourmet – Festival slice of special pizza

In addition, the restaurants will have special festival menus. It should be a bit of fun, so anyone thinking about coming to Dingle, do! Restaurant bookings will be through the individual restaurants, and lodgings can be arranged through the tourist office. There are links on the festival website...

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A Jaunt to Slea Head

Sleeping Giant Blasket Island I had a bit of free time yesterday, and since the weather was stunning, I decided to take a jaunt out Slea Head.

Blasket IslandsI don’t get back West as much as I would like, but when I’m there, looking out at the Blasket Islands, walking in the green grass, and basking in the calm, I think I surely must be blessed to have all of this at my doorstep.

By the way, in case you don’t get the top photo, Inis Tuaisceart is also called the Sleeping Giant…

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Study in Ice Cream Cones 2

Sorry to put two slide shows back to back, but Mercier Press wanted a more colourful photo for the book cover than the ones I sent them previously (see here). I have to say that I think that vanilla could be the new black, and with a bit of melting action nothing more is needed, but I have to defer to professionals! Anyway, the above slide shows are the fruits of a photo session this afternoon, and I shot four cones together to add a bit of colour. I'd love to know what you, my valued readers, think!

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Ice Cream Eaters in Biarritz

I didn't think that people ate ice cream in Biarritz, until last Sunday. Then, all of the strollers came out and lined up for the stuff. Quite amazing to see the place so busy, and to see shops that had been mostly closed during the week doing a booming trade. Anyway, above is a sampling of photos...

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Biarritz, Part Trois

Biarritz surfers sunset One could get used to life in Biarritz. A swim and then coffee in the morning, followed by a visit to the market, a day writing, and a sunset stroll before dinner to look out across the water and to marvel at the amount of surfers, bobbing around like a huge family of seals.

Biarritz Fish MarketThe markets in France have always been a source of joy for me. Life in Ireland has greatly improved with the advent of the farmer’s markets, but still we are a ways from what one can find on this side of the water – especially in terms of vegetables, fruits, baked goods, and freshly-caught fish.

Every day, my lunch has consisted of booty collected at the market – prawns, local cheeses, fresh yogurt, and whatever looks especially tasty in terms of vegetables and fruits.

Les Platanes Restaurant, Biarritz

Nights have been about checking out the local eateries. Last night the restaurant was
Les Platanes, a restaurant with a Michelin star, in an old house with plenty of charm.

The service was friendly and the food was quite good, although perhaps not quite what one would expect given the reputation. Could be, of course, that the chef was distracted by the rugby and and not giving the cooking the usual attention. I’m guessing it’s bad form to go for a meal while “Les Bleus” are playing. From my perspective, however, given Ireland’s performances, I was happy for the distraction!

(P.S. from Saturday night: Just back from Chez Albert down at the pier. It’s a seafood restaurant with a stunning location. Inventive and delicious. Definitely recommended, but give the desserts a miss.)

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Biarritz, Part Deux

surfer biarritz That’s not me on the surfboard. No, I have been quite diligent here, working away on the book. Still, there has been time to stroll around the place and get a sense of Biarritz.

Biarritz beachIt’s surprisingly quiet, so I don’t know if we’ll be opening a shop here anytime soon! But the tranquility is what makes it appealing – a relaxed place, with slightly faded grandeur.

One thing is certain – it is very popular with surfers. The beach is packed with them. They are the only people who seem in a hurry – I’ve met a few running down the streets in wetsuits, boards tucked under the arm, to try to catch the next wave.

Le Clos Basque Restaurant BiarritzThis evening I had a delightful meal in Le Clos Basque Restaurant (12, Rue Louis Barthou, Biarritz). Tucked away down a side street, the interior is charming with white-washed walls and starched blue and white tablecloths.

The food was inventive (perfectly cooked skewer of prawns with strawberries and a vanilla risotto, gazpacho with black pepper and mint served with a slice of peasant bread and aged parmesan, stewed apricots with lavender chantilly) and worth waiting for (the place was packed, and the waiters seemed a bit overwhelmed). The prices were as surprising as the food – less than 30 euro per person for three courses including wine…

Reservations are essential. So book ahead and don’t miss it. After all, what’s the hurry?

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