More Venice

Masks in a Venice Shop A week in Venice goes by very quickly! Even without the museums and other attractions, simply walking around the city offers enough diversion that the days fly in a series of beautiful images.

Sardines in Rialto marketOf couse, visiting the mask shops was a must for us, since Wrens Day is coming up quickly, and what better costume for this year than a mask from Venice?

It is a bit surprising to me how strong tourism is here that even in the end of October, the place is packed with us. I cant even imagine what it is like here in Summer. Anyway… 

For any foodie, the market in Rialto is a visual treat, and lunch today will come from the chunks of fresh tuna bought there along with fresh fennel and other vegetables.

Gondolier on the phoneIn terms of ice cream, Gelateria Nico in Zattere has been the best so far, and it is a perfect place to grab an ice cream for a stroll to see the gondolas being fixed in the boatyard or a wander along the lagoon.

It must be said that most of the ice cream around the place is utter junk, the then again, that is the case in most places…

La Zucca RestaurantThe best meal has been in La Zucca, a delightful restaurant with good vegetarian options as well as the usual meats, etc. The pumpkin flan (not a dessert) is worth a trip in itself, and the desserts are definitely weighted toward the chocoholic (happy days!)

Today, I think, will be a lazy day, and I will get some work done on the book. On the other hand, there is the Venice Biennale on at the moment, and it certainly is tempting to go wander the pavillions and soak in some (more) art…

Technorati tags: , , ,

Venice!

Boats in the Canal, Venice It is so great to be in this city! The old buildings and faded grandeur are so refreshing coming from Ireland, where old is bad and every slightly weathered structure is ripped down in favour of spanking new semi-Ds.

Traffic JamI could spend a week simply walking, feasting on the visual treats. I’m staying in a rented apartment instead of a hotel, and it’s huge, quiet, central, full of charm, and brilliant in that I don’t have to have every meal out. Last night I made a pumpkin risotto with spoils from the market…

Tonight it’s a Handel and Vivaldi concert in Scuola Grande San Rocco beneath the masterpieces of Tintoretto, tomorrow it’s La Fenice. I’m so spoiled!

Technorati tags: , , ,

Ice Cream Eaters in Biarritz

I didn't think that people ate ice cream in Biarritz, until last Sunday. Then, all of the strollers came out and lined up for the stuff. Quite amazing to see the place so busy, and to see shops that had been mostly closed during the week doing a booming trade. Anyway, above is a sampling of photos...

Technorati tags: , , ,

Biarritz, Part Trois

Biarritz surfers sunset One could get used to life in Biarritz. A swim and then coffee in the morning, followed by a visit to the market, a day writing, and a sunset stroll before dinner to look out across the water and to marvel at the amount of surfers, bobbing around like a huge family of seals.

Biarritz Fish MarketThe markets in France have always been a source of joy for me. Life in Ireland has greatly improved with the advent of the farmer’s markets, but still we are a ways from what one can find on this side of the water – especially in terms of vegetables, fruits, baked goods, and freshly-caught fish.

Every day, my lunch has consisted of booty collected at the market – prawns, local cheeses, fresh yogurt, and whatever looks especially tasty in terms of vegetables and fruits.

Les Platanes Restaurant, Biarritz

Nights have been about checking out the local eateries. Last night the restaurant was
Les Platanes, a restaurant with a Michelin star, in an old house with plenty of charm.

The service was friendly and the food was quite good, although perhaps not quite what one would expect given the reputation. Could be, of course, that the chef was distracted by the rugby and and not giving the cooking the usual attention. I’m guessing it’s bad form to go for a meal while “Les Bleus” are playing. From my perspective, however, given Ireland’s performances, I was happy for the distraction!

(P.S. from Saturday night: Just back from Chez Albert down at the pier. It’s a seafood restaurant with a stunning location. Inventive and delicious. Definitely recommended, but give the desserts a miss.)

Technorati tags: , , ,

Biarritz, Part Deux

surfer biarritz That’s not me on the surfboard. No, I have been quite diligent here, working away on the book. Still, there has been time to stroll around the place and get a sense of Biarritz.

Biarritz beachIt’s surprisingly quiet, so I don’t know if we’ll be opening a shop here anytime soon! But the tranquility is what makes it appealing – a relaxed place, with slightly faded grandeur.

One thing is certain – it is very popular with surfers. The beach is packed with them. They are the only people who seem in a hurry – I’ve met a few running down the streets in wetsuits, boards tucked under the arm, to try to catch the next wave.

Le Clos Basque Restaurant BiarritzThis evening I had a delightful meal in Le Clos Basque Restaurant (12, Rue Louis Barthou, Biarritz). Tucked away down a side street, the interior is charming with white-washed walls and starched blue and white tablecloths.

The food was inventive (perfectly cooked skewer of prawns with strawberries and a vanilla risotto, gazpacho with black pepper and mint served with a slice of peasant bread and aged parmesan, stewed apricots with lavender chantilly) and worth waiting for (the place was packed, and the waiters seemed a bit overwhelmed). The prices were as surprising as the food – less than 30 euro per person for three courses including wine…

Reservations are essential. So book ahead and don’t miss it. After all, what’s the hurry?

Technorati tags: , , , , ,

Biarritz

Biarritz The ice cream man has taken advantage of cheap Ryanair flights and fled the country for a bit of work on the book and some culinary re-charging. Sun was also part of the idea, but sadly it’s raining here in Biarritz.

Biarritz Food MarketStill, I don’t mind a bit. There is a mountain of writing to be done on the book, although I couldn’t resist a swim this morning (you’re going to get wet anyway, so what’s a bit of rain?)

Then I found a wonderful indoor market just around the corner from the hotel. I sure do love France! Now I have a bag full of fruit that actually smells like fruit and some local cheeses. I have a baguette from the boulanger and, after a feed, it will be all work this afternoon.

Or… will it? It looks like the sun is coming out!

Technorati tags: , , ,

Mallorca Top Ten

Formentor Mallorca Mallorca was a pleasant place to visit, and I can certainly recommend it. Although there are plenty of the ugly high rise developments that mar the coast of Spain, there are also plenty of places that remain virtually untouched. The mountains provide much of the scenery, and there are lovely beaches for swimming. Throw in some good food and a bit of culture, and you could do far, far worse. In fact, I really wished I had more time…

Here are the highlights of my visit to Mallorca:

1. Drinking a thick chocolate and eating orange sorbet made from local oranges while watching the harbour in Palma at Grand Cafe Cappuccino. It’s a chain, but they know what they are about.

Fundacio Joan Miro2. Getting a bit of culture at Fundacio Joan y Pilar Miro. I have always loved his paintings, and this combines a museum with his house and studios. It’s quite a thrill to see where he painted some of his great works.

3. Cafe Cortado – This the preferred drink for a lift in the afternoon. It’s usually a double espresso with a dash of steamed milk served in a small glass…

4. The raw beauty of peninsula Formentor. Even with all the coach tours, this place is unmissable. If the road gets too windy and you get too hot, there are a few good beaches to jump in and cool down.

Cala Pi Beach5. Swimming in the cove at Cala Pi, on the South Coast. You have to climb down a steep set of stairs to access a perfect beach with protected waters.

6. Tapas. Every one seems to agree that La Boveda has the best, and I can’t disagree. They were sublime!

7. The public transport buses in Palma. For 1.10 you can get just about anywhere, and they come regularly! A great way to get home after a late dinner with a few glasses of wine (see #10)…

Valdemossa Mallorca8. Exploring the mountain towns. Although many of these are quite touristy, they make a great place for a wander. The most famous is probably Valldemossa, where Chopin and George Sand spent some of their troubled time together.

9. Spanish Leather. There’s much to choose from. I came back with a new pair of Campers – the company is based in the town of Inca, which has a great tradition of leather work.

10. Good Spanish red wine.

Technorati tags: , , , ,