Ice Cream Ireland

 Armed with the fantastic Bridgestone Guides and some recommendations, we headed up the country from Dingle in search of good food, good scenery, and a bit of a break in the bleakness of January.

Although the weather can be bad and some places closed, Winter is a good time to travel, since nothing is booked out, you have the countryside to yourself, and there are real bargains to be had in terms of lodgings.

Since it’s the quiet season in the world of ice cream and the workload is diminished, it’s a perfect time to explore parts of the country one doesn’t usually get to…

The first stops were in Galway - deliveries of ice cream to Ard Bia in Galway city (sadly we didn’t have the hunger to enjoy their lunch menu due to too much snacking) and to the multi-award-winning McGeough’s Butchers in Oughterard.

We pushed on then, heading up through beautiful Connemara for a stroll around Westport, then on to Sligo, where we had booked into Cromleach Lodge.

This highly-rated establishment has been recently refurbished, and it was very comfortable.

I think we were the only people spending the night, and there were only two other tables booked at the restaurant. Perhaps because the kitchen was so quiet, the meal was a bit of a let-down. The breakfast in the morning, however, was fantastic.

The next day we drove to Donegal, stopping for the cliff walk before Bundoran to take advantage of a break in the rain, although the high winds made things a bit difficult. In Donegal town, we visited Aroma and were not disappointed in the cakes. Top class baking.

We decided to spend the night in Ardara, having heard great things about the rustic Green Gate B&B, where there’s no TV or phones, and where the legendary ex-Parisian bookstore owner Paul had made headlines after cancelling all his American bookings (he had one too many head elsewhere after seeing how basic it was). And yes, he is accepting Americans again, but be warned - it is as basic as it is charming…

Nancy’s Bar in Ardara sadly does not do food in the off season, as I’ve been told they do the best chowder in Ireland, but it is definitely worth a stop. The Guinness was mighty, the atmosphere homey, and the conversation great…

The next day we drove around the coast, then headed into Glenveigh National Park for a walk. Although we ended up drenched from the rain, it was a good stroll, and some tea in Glenveigh Castle helped to warm ourselves.

We spent the night in Castle Grove House in Letterkenny, which we loved. On a quiet, restful site, it has tasteful furnishings, high ceilings, tasty food, and two drawing rooms with huge roaring wood fires to warm the bones.

The following morning we filled the van with diesel and headed toward the border…

(Part 2 to follow - Antrim, Belfast and Down)

Technorati tags: Ireland, North West, travel, Galway, Sligo, Donegal

 The ice cream man has headed North - Sligo, Donegal, Antrim, Belfast. I will post photos and high points when I get back. There have already been a few of the latter…

Technorati tags: Ireland, Northern Ireland, travel

One of the new developments in the Irish gourmet food world is the emergence of off licenses with a selection of gourmet foods. The new Castle Off License in Castle Street, Tralee is a good example of this. Besides a good range of booze, they sell local smoked salmon, Irish cheeses, chocolates, and our ice cream among other things. It’s definitely worth a visit.

I think this trend makes sense, especially if the off license specialises in fine wines or upscale spirits, for those customers would tend to be interested in unique foods as well. There certainly are other off licenses around the country that are doing the same - the Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin was one of our first customers…

Technorati tags: Dublin, Tralee, off license, gourmet, Ireland

 My brother has installed a GPS in the ice cream delivery van, and I tried it out for the first time today. I don’t think this particular model is the top of the line, and it’s a bit cumbersome in terms of adding your destination. However, it sure makes getting lost difficult, especially in a city. It’s also great if there is a traffic diversion or heavy traffic that diverts you onto confusing and poorly sign-posted Irish back roads.

I highly recommend that anyone doing a lot of driving for sales or deliveries (who doesn’t already have one) part with the couple hundred euro…

Technorati tags: G.P.S, global positioning, system, travel, Ireland

 With all the excitement of going to Paris, I forgot to write about a new development in the Dublin food scene. The most excellent Sheridan’s Cheesemongers have taken a space on the lower ground floor of Arnotts department store, and I visited before I flew out. As well as their tantalising cheeses, they have a great selection of tasty treats (including our ice cream!) Anyone on the North side should have a look in…

Technorati tags: Dublin, Sheridans, cheese, Arnotts, Ireland

 I am happily back in Kerry now, and spent most of a busy bank holiday Sunday in our Dingle shop.

The most lasting impression of this last trip and the food world in Paris is how upscale many of the boutiques have become and how far ahead they are in terms of care of mouth-watering presentation and the sheer love of food.

From the excess of Hediard and Fauchon to tiny shops selling anything from olive oil to tea to cheese, there is an attention to detail that is lacking in Ireland. And boy, have some of them become super-posh!

Ireland has come such a long way, and it is now producing some gourmet food products that I believe are as good anywhere in the world. But in terms of the retail end of the food business, it has a long way to go.

This is not meant as a criticism, since we don’t have the same tradition of food, and for so many centuries we were lucky enough to eat anything at all. Still, I think that anyone with a food shop or cafe in Ireland would do very well wandering the streets of Paris to bring back ideas (that is, if you need an excuse). I know that I came back with a trunk load…

Technorati tags: Paris, France, food, ireland, gourmet, ice cream

It certainly is hard on the feet pounding the pavement in search of tasty treats in Paris, but it’s easy on the eyes and on the stomach! What a great time!

Here are my top Paris picks from this trip:

Best Chocolate: Patrick Roger on 108 boulevard St-Germain. This shop is irresistible from the scent of chocolate upon walking in to the huge circular display of treats. Truffles get top marks as does everything we tried. The fact that the chocolatier himself was inside made it that much more special.

Best Pastries: Pierre Herme 72 rue Bonaparte. His chocolates are wonderful, but his pastries are even better. The staff is pleasant and professional, and I could hardly wait to rip that pretty bag to pieces the moment I could (out of sight of more restrained eyes) to get at the goodies! (By the way, his ice cream, at 24 euro a tub makes mine seem an utter bargain!)

Best Breads: Erik Kayser 14 rue Monge - This is an organic branch just a few shops down from his flagship shop. Fabulous!

Best Hot Chocolate: La Charlotte de l’isle 4 rue St.-Louis en l’ile - Don’t be shy - march into the back room of this little shop, sit at one of the little tables and indulge in the silkiest, thickest chocolate in the city accompanied by a crystal carafe of water. It’s only open Thurs - Sun, but well worth the trip if you need a chocolate high!

Most Pretension - Marcolini 89 rue de Seine - The staff wouldn’t even look at us in this stuffy shop, and you are taken in the back room to pay (assuming you’re up to their high standards). I’ve never had such a hard time trying to buy chocolate. Ridiculous!

Most Interesting - Sadaharu Aoki 35 rue de Vaugirard - Japanese pastry chef meets Paris. Lots of interesting flavours and fun combinations. Don’t go if you’re astonished by 12 euro bars of chocolate!

Most Garish Foodie Place - Fauchon place de la Madeleine - They are celebrating their 120th anniversary, and the banners and posters are about the tackiest thing I saw in the city of lights…

Best Ice Cream - Has to be Berthillon 31 rue St.-Louis-en-l’ile - Even though they are closed until January, there is no shortage of places to sample their wares. Truly top on fruit flavours and sorbets…

Best Meal - Casa Olympe 48 rue Saint-Georges - Dominique (Olympe) Versini was the first female French chef to receive a Michelin star. We had a delightful dinner in her tiny bistro near Pigalle. And the value was exceptional!

Technorati tags: Paris, France, chocolate, pastry, best of, ice cream

 I am in Paris at the moment, having come over to attend the Sial food exposition. I did not stay very long at the Expo, however, preferring to wander around the streets of Paris and visit my favourite foodie haunts. More later!

Last week, I was delivering some ice cream down to Urru in Bandon, which is one of my favourite food shops in Ireland. It’s definitely worth a look and taste!

Ruth there told me they are opening a second shop in Mallow, hopefully by the end of next month. The lucky residents of Mallow! For us foodies in Kerry, it will just about enough reason to miss the train connection coming from or going to Dublin, just to stock up on goodies!

You will find the original Urru at: The Mill, McSwiney Quay, Bandon, Co Cork.

Technorati tags: gourmet, food, Cork, Urru

 I’m just back from Dublin, Croke Park, and a comprehensive Kerry victory. Although it wasn’t much of a game in the end, it’s good to know all the same that Sam is coming back to the Kingdom!

Technorati tags: Sam Meguire, football, Kerry, All Ireland